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 Battery Info and Questions
 RC value of a battery
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member


USA
1434 Posts

Posted - April 11 2012 :  14:20:14  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
With the help of a friend, I now have an oscilloscope to play with.

Now I can read Hz and have been told to match the Hz with my charge battery RC value capability

If the RC value of the battery is 15
Then can I assume this is divided by the C rating

15/C20 = .75hz??

Second Question;
Battery stating RC205 @ 25amps

Does this mean I need to produce 1.25amps @ 10.25hz??
Using a C20 rate....

As usual, if asked already and answered, just point me towards the thread
Always willing to read and learn


P.S. Like the new site background! Just wouldn't want to be standing there!!! Whoever did it, 2 thumbs up!! Great job!




Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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USA
Mountain View


49er
Administrator



USA
4426 Posts

Posted - April 11 2012 :  16:13:39  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

I almost told you I didn't know what you were talking about. LOL Good one... RC is Reserve Capacity and that is just another way that a battery company sells more power when there is none. C20 is the only capacity of a battery. As far as a auto style battery they go with CCA and then you look at temp that you are going to operate in. example 700 CCA at 80 F and the other is 550 CCA 32 F and that may be the RC they mean. As far as the Hz or KHz some where I have a copy of a study on that and MOST all batteries except a charge at the freq of 3.4 to 3.6 but best at 3.5 KHz. at what ever many amps. BUT that also depends on how sulfated your battery is. Hope this helps

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - April 11 2012 :  17:12:09  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Once again, Mis-stated in my excitement to learn, you got me ....
My Bad...

In another thread you spoke 'to' me of getting to the point of reading the KHz of the circuit and matching to the RC Value of the battery for best results

Well I finally got there...

I now know the KHz
I now know the RC value

And now it doesn't matter??
Just run at 3.5khz and all is fine???

Such a dis-appointment...








Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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49er
Administrator



USA
4426 Posts

Posted - April 11 2012 :  19:55:01  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

Feel good It took me 18 months to find this info and you get it in minutes. LOL

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - April 12 2012 :  17:12:17  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Then, may I say thank you!

Okay, let me walk through this and see if I understand this.

3.5KHz would be best (as you said for most batteries)
Then I'm looking to build my SS circuit to match not only the c20 rate, but run at 3.5KHz for optimum operation

If I'm reading you correctly, this would be once the batteries are conditioned (or de-sulfated)






Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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49er
Administrator



USA
4426 Posts

Posted - April 12 2012 :  17:42:40  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

Well now you are going to now learn something new, with a freq of 3.5 it won't be at the C20 rate But this is what using a pulse charger is all about. As your battery gets condition it takes less time or less amps to do the same job which is what you need to learn. Example a pr of T105 / 225ah batteries with a conventional charge (CC) will take 20 hrs to charge and this is what you use for the standard charge base line. Now you next charge with a pulse charge with less amps as what you did with the CC what you will find is it will still charge in 20 hrs but with no heat like the CC did and after you get 10 to 20 D&C on the battery the charge time and or amps or both will be less to do the same full charge of the battery. Its is something you have to experience and see how well your battery takes to the pulse charge. Depending on what unit you use you will amazed as long as it is matched for the battery..

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE bxx49er
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - April 13 2012 :  17:27:44  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
"As your battery gets condition it takes less time or less amps to do the same job"

This is what I'm seeing
As the D/C is taking longer to draw the charge battery is up to full sooner

"Now you next charge with a pulse charge with less amps (me; not C20 rate) as what you did with the CC what you will find is it will still charge in 20 hrs but with no heat like the CC did and after you get 10 to 20 D&C on the battery the charge time and or amps or both will be less to do the same full charge of the battery"

So time is what I'm working towards, not necessarily the C20 rate (as not to exceed..)

Dis-charge (or run the circuit with the battery) at C20 draw, but adjust the battery (change batteries or control dis-charge) according to what the battery will take for charge at that rate

I believe you just put me over a hurdle I've been dealing with

My dis-charge has lengthen
My charge time has shorten
And I'm not at C20 with either (close... 1.2amp draw and should be 1.5amp)

If I have this correct
Once conditioned
2 batteries, of the same size
Will charge each other if the circuit will reduce the production of charge to equal a 20hr Time of charge?
















Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

Go to Top of Page

olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - April 13 2012 :  17:48:18  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
"As your battery gets condition it takes less time or less amps to do the same job"

This is what I'm seeing
As the D/C is taking longer to draw the charge battery is up to full sooner

"Now you next charge with a pulse charge with less amps (me; not C20 rate) as what you did with the CC what you will find is it will still charge in 20 hrs but with no heat like the CC did and after you get 10 to 20 D&C on the battery the charge time and or amps or both will be less to do the same full charge of the battery"

So time is what I'm working towards, not necessarily the C20 rate (as not to exceed..)

Dis-charge (or run the circuit with the battery) at C20 draw, but adjust the battery (change batteries or control dis-charge) according to what the battery will take for charge at that rate

I believe you just put me over a hurdle I've been dealing with

My dis-charge has lengthen
My charge time has shorten
And I'm not at C20 with either (close... 1.2amp draw and should be 1.5amp)

If I have this correct
Once conditioned
2 batteries, of the same size
Will charge each other if the circuit will reduce the production of charge to equal a 20hr Time of charge?
















Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

Go to Top of Page

49er
Administrator



USA
4426 Posts

Posted - April 13 2012 :  17:53:31  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

You just have to see that it is each battery that you have to learn and rub on and give it a big kiss from time to time. LOL good luck I think you have it

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE bxx49er
Go to Top of Page
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