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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - December 31 2011 :  19:50:03  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Ice-Viper
Good to hear your up and running.If you have a look at my vidio's you will notice that i never have to use heat sinks with the 2n3055 as they never get hot.However the way i build my coils and the size of the magnets i use,i dont draw much current.Diferent machines may need heat sinks amd there is no harm in useing them

Remember-when you make a mistake you have just learned how not to do it.This only brings you one step closser to success.The only way to fail is to never try>>>>TinMan<<<<
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Ice_Viper220
Junior Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - December 31 2011 :  19:58:24  Show Profile Send Ice_Viper220 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Tinman,
I got my window motor setup from the guys at r-charge i am actually getting ready to upgrade the magnets and the winding, as my winding is a 200 turn bifillar coil i was thinking about doing trifillar windings and using the extra trigger wires with a jewel thief circuit and hopefully light my little work area with a cfl light.
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - December 31 2011 :  23:45:38  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Ice viper
That sounds like an interesting concept-you would have to make a realy jewel thief circuit though,and get it to run of a small amount of current.I will be looking forward to see how it go's for you.

Remember-when you make a mistake you have just learned how not to do it.This only brings you one step closser to success.The only way to fail is to never try>>>>TinMan<<<<
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Ice_Viper220
Junior Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - January 04 2012 :  04:09:00  Show Profile Send Ice_Viper220 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Tinman,
I have been running a replication of your twin back emf circuit for a few days now and no matter what I do I am not getting a high voltage spike out of either one of my coils. Would my 200 turn coil be the reason for that or possibly my substation of tip 3055 for the 2n3055's. And lastly do you think that your "miracle" coil would work on a window motor?
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - January 04 2012 :  08:43:42  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Ice Viper-200 turns is very low,most are 450 turns plus-i would say this is why you only have a low voltage spike as there is not enough turns to amplify the voltage enough.As for the miracle coil lol -which one are you refering to??I havnt seen any miracle's yet,just good results.A coil from a microwave oven is the duck guts for a window motor-mine work's realy well.
As far as the tip3055 go's-well i dont use them,but other guys have with great sucess.But as the saying go's--there are the 2n3055's and then there is the rest lol.
Best coil for the twin backemf setup is a bifilar-.55 or.61 wire,450 to 600 turns.Soft iron welding rods for the core give's great results.

Remember-when you make a mistake you have just learned how not to do it.This only brings you one step closser to success.The only way to fail is to never try>>>>TinMan<<<<
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Ice_Viper220
Junior Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - January 04 2012 :  15:11:41  Show Profile Send Ice_Viper220 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The miracle coil l was refering to is the lenze law smashing coil.
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Ice_Viper220
Junior Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - January 05 2012 :  04:55:09  Show Profile Send Ice_Viper220 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Tinman I just got a extra microwave from work, its a few years old but it still works fine. I am going to pull it apart and replace the coil then I will let you know how the tip 3055's perform after its done, if I still can't get the high voltage then I will have to try the 2n3055's.
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - January 05 2012 :  08:37:49  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Ice viper-ok a little confused here.Are you talking about my twin backEMF ssg setup or my window motor setup??as they are two diferent things.The window motor uses the microwave oven coil and the twin backEMF setup is for a ssg style pulse motor.

Remember-when you make a mistake you have just learned how not to do it.This only brings you one step closser to success.The only way to fail is to never try>>>>TinMan<<<<
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - January 05 2012 :  08:49:15  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
here is a vidio of my window motor


Remember-when you make a mistake you have just learned how not to do it.This only brings you one step closser to success.The only way to fail is to never try>>>>TinMan<<<<
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - January 05 2012 :  08:52:06  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
And this is a vidio of my twin back EMF ssg


Remember-when you make a mistake you have just learned how not to do it.This only brings you one step closser to success.The only way to fail is to never try>>>>TinMan<<<<
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Ice_Viper220
Junior Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - January 05 2012 :  14:47:20  Show Profile Send Ice_Viper220 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Tinman,
I am running the twin back emf circuit on my window motor, and once I figure out how to get this shell apart without damaging the coil I will be using the mot with my window motor.
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - January 05 2012 :  17:11:31  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Ice viper
On the transfomer you will see that it's an e core with the flat laminates welded on one end.Just carefuly grind those two weld down and the base of the e core will come of.It is then just a matter of wrigling the coils of the e core.Depending on how much varnish they have thrown on the transformer will depend on how much time you have to spend wrigling those winding off.some can be hard.

Remember-when you make a mistake you have just learned how not to do it.This only brings you one step closser to success.The only way to fail is to never try>>>>TinMan<<<<
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Ice_Viper220
Junior Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - January 05 2012 :  17:30:49  Show Profile Send Ice_Viper220 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Tinman,
yea the coils are pretty heavily coated but like the saying goes if its easy its not worth it. Just to give you a little insite into my end game stratagy i am looking into makeing a motor the is extreamly efficent. with the r-charge window motor b kit you can produce real useable torque. I want to use this to drive a axial flux alternator. Now there is one thing i am wondering, will the fact that a magnetic motor is running the alternator create a kind of magnetic field confrontation? I am wondering if i need to use a layer of some type to isolate the 2 magnetic fields from one another. I bought the twm kid so that i could start to farmiliarise myself with the way the motors and circuits behave before makeing the full investment of $850.
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - January 06 2012 :  04:16:08  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Ice-Viper
$850.00 is a lot of money to pay for any kit-it could be built for a lot less,and there is nothing better than to see your own creation running.I do realize that a lot of people arnt in the position to build there own work of art,and sometime's things just have to be bought.My window motor is very efficient but wouldnt drive much of an altinator.In reguards to that-yes you would have to seperate the fields between motor and generator. a steel shield would have unknown effects on your rotating magnets-so the best way is distance between the 2.A long shaft(stainless steel)between the two would be the way to go.

Remember-when you make a mistake you have just learned how not to do it.This only brings you one step closser to success.The only way to fail is to never try>>>>TinMan<<<<
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Ice_Viper220
Junior Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - January 06 2012 :  18:45:13  Show Profile Send Ice_Viper220 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Tinman,
I was thinking about using a centripetal clutch, the style that mini bikes use. That way i could overcome the cogging effect ls that happen on a axial flux alternator at low speeds.
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - January 07 2012 :  06:00:26  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Ice-viper
That must be a big unit your makeing to drive a centrifical clutch on it-only problem with that is slip unless the rpm's are high.Maybe a centrifical dog clutch might be better although they engage realy hard with a bang.

Remember-when you make a mistake you have just learned how not to do it.This only brings you one step closser to success.The only way to fail is to never try>>>>TinMan<<<<>>Were's the vidio??<<<
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Ice_Viper220
Junior Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - January 07 2012 :  06:07:55  Show Profile Send Ice_Viper220 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Tinman,
My uncle runs a mini bike shop and he stocks clutches that are adjustable from 1000 to 3000 rpms. And the unit I want to use is 40 pounds of materials that assemble into a window motor just so you have some idea about the size of the unit. The shaft that runs through the rotar is 1/2 in."
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ccass15n
Average Member



USA
218 Posts

Posted - January 09 2012 :  01:17:54  Show Profile Send ccass15n a Private Message  Reply with Quote
wow, that is one big device lol, best of luck! are you using aluminum for your rotor and shaft?

also just wanted to say that Tinman i finally got around to trying out one of your circuits, i built the twin bemf/one battery one together but added a really strange setup lol i dont think its doing anything to it but i wanted to add it just to mess with, but i also used 68 ohm resistor and a 270 ohm resistor i believe... so i did this two and a half days ago on a brand new battery, the battery starting voltage was at 12.56, it dropped to 12.50 when i turned it on, now i havent touched it since and the battery is stable at 12.50, if it stays like this for the rest of the day, its 12:41am where i am right now, i will post pictures and everything i can

"Visualize it, Make a Plan, Make It Happen"

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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - January 09 2012 :  03:53:20  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Cass-ok now you have my attention lol-dont worry about pic's-were's the vidio lol(TJ will love that one lol)This is one i got to see'so yea,please keep us informed
Ice Viper-That is defently one big unit-this i cant wait to see also.But one word of advice on cass's question about useing aluminum-DONT.Ali has one of the worst drag effects on magnetic fields you can get.Most people say that it dosnt make a diference with useing ali as a rotor as the magnets rotate with it-but the thing they forget is that your coil is an electro magnet that is stationary,and your ali rotor is spining past that stationary coil= drag.Go s/s shaft and plexiglass or hard plastic rotor with cerramic bearings as normal steel bearings that are to close to a magnetic field also cause drag.

Remember-when you make a mistake you have just learned how not to do it.This only brings you one step closser to success.The only way to fail is to never try>>>>TinMan<<<<>>Were's the vidio??<<<
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ccass15n
Average Member



USA
218 Posts

Posted - January 11 2012 :  17:59:29  Show Profile Send ccass15n a Private Message  Reply with Quote
ok so i made tinman's one battery double dump circuit and added something to it. now when you look at this you will say that adding what i did was pointless and shouldnt change anything or would show negative effects, i agree, however i was just messing around with all the circuits and just seeing what would happen if i put this there or this there or this there and so on. so when i started the circuit up my battery was at 12.56volts, it dropped down to 12.50 volts, it stayed at this voltage for 3.5 days then dropped to 12.49volts. everything was kept the same on tinmans circuit except for what i added and instead of the 50ohm resistor i used a 68 ohm resistor. here is a pic of what i did, also i disconnected it and am trying other things to it to see what happens..



"Visualize it, Make a Plan, Make It Happen"

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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - January 11 2012 :  23:48:09  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Cass-that looks similar to a circuit kultus posted a while ago-with an extra cap.Your caps would capture any of the voltage that the battery couldnt take in.Hey here is something to try-put another 1n4007 on the collector and run that to FWBR were the positive lead from the battery go's and remove that battery lead--leave the negative one as is.I would be interested to see if the voltage in your caps go"s higher than the battery voltage.For it to run for 3 1/2 days and only drop .01 of a volt is very good.Infact if you take into account your rotor rotation i think you may have cop> as im sure that rotation could have been used to generate .01 volts in 3 1/2 days.

Remember-when you make a mistake you have just learned how not to do it.This only brings you one step closser to success.The only way to fail is to never try>>>>TinMan<<<<>>Were's the vidio??<<<
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iaec
Forum Admin



1033 Posts

Posted - January 13 2012 :  17:45:07  Show Profile Send iaec a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Nice going Cass,
3.5 days for only 0.01vdc drop is very good...awesome progress :))

Keep it up mate...^^


TimberJack

***Possibilities Within The Impossible***

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ccass15n
Average Member



USA
218 Posts

Posted - January 13 2012 :  21:01:48  Show Profile Send ccass15n a Private Message  Reply with Quote
hey tinman have you tried combining your single battery pulse motor circuit with your ssg run battery drain reduction mod circuit

"Visualize it, Make a Plan, Make It Happen"

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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - January 14 2012 :  20:31:40  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
hi cass-no need with this setup as it is already done in the way that the circuit is open between the collector and emmiter as the magnet aproaches the coil-this is when a normal ssg circuit sent the positive charge back to the nagative side of the run battery.So killed 2 birds with one stone you could say-with this circuit.

Swim at 90 degree's to the current and gain speed in two directions while only doing half the work
>>>>TinMan<<<<
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fathershand
New Member



USA
61 Posts

Posted - January 21 2012 :  20:05:30  Show Profile  Visit fathershand's Homepage  Send fathershand a Yahoo! Message Send fathershand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Tinman, since it appears that the one battery circuit doesn't really charge the battery, would you say that it's best use would be to desulphate old batteries?

Also, can you tell me what is the purpose of the resistors on the base of the transistor?

Also, what is the value and/or purpose of the one ohm test? I think that it helps to reduce the amount of charging amps down to one amp for a 12V system.

Thanks for all your help?


Tony

I believe.
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - January 22 2012 :  04:44:55  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Fathershand-good to see your still about.
The 1 battery system was just a design that i made for myself realy.It was said that it couldnt be done-so i just wanted to see if i could.As it turned out,it was a very eficient pulse motor so i thought i'd share it with everyone.As it still sends those high voltage spike's to a battery i would asume that it is infact desuphating the battery as it go's.ccass made one himself not long ago and it ran for 3 and a half days and he lost only .01 of a volt from the battery.I think being able to turn a rotor for 3 and a half days only looseing .01 of a volt is a preaty good effort-i wonder what work could that shaft have done in 3 and a half days?.
The resistors simple are used to reduce the current going to the transistors,which determonds how long the transistor is switched on for.So these values will change with diferent machines.It would be best to use 2 500 ohm pots and adjust them for best performance.The one ohm test you would have to speek to Twally about,as i am not sure why that test is carried out,i think it's a demonstration on how little amp's go into a charge battery but lot's of volts.

Swim at 90 degree's to the current and gain speed in two directions while only doing half the work
>>>>TinMan<<<<
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fathershand
New Member



USA
61 Posts

Posted - January 22 2012 :  15:47:35  Show Profile  Visit fathershand's Homepage  Send fathershand a Yahoo! Message Send fathershand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks for responding, Tinman. Yes, I am still here and have been all along. I've been experimenting on the SSG. My goal is to be able to charge large, deep cycle and truck batteries. I finally got the wheel to run, but my coil is not the greatest. So, I had to add some boost coils to get it to charge up a large truck battery. In order to do that, I added two coils in parallel to the run windings of the main bifilar coil. I can get this standard SSG circuit to self oscillate with these two coils. Now when that happens, the charging goes over 13V on the truck battery. When I was on the wheel, it wouldn't go that high. Each time I let the battery rest, the resting voltage is higher than before. BTW, you won't believe the amount of resistance in the two boost coils. One is around 10 ohms and the other is 1000 ohms. The 1000 ohm coil is what is causing the self-oscillation. I tried 67, 120, 350, and 1000 ohms. The charging seemed better with each higher resistance.

I know you suggested that I modify the circuit to use the wheel, but as it didn't give me enough voltage ... I am determined to build another coil and use the wheel for that. Which one of the "self charging" circuits do you recommend? There are several on this thread.

After I read your post, something occurred to me about the low draw on the single battery and your remark about what could have been done with that spinning wheel. What do you think about using the wheel to heat water using induction on a copper plate? I've seen that somewhere on youtube.

One final suggestion for the forum. When I subscribe to this thread, I get an email notice telling me when someone posts on this thread. The link in my email looks like this: You must be logged in to see this link.
This means that I have to search in the thread for the new post. Can we change the link to something like this:
You must be logged in to see this link.
At least that narrows it down to the page the post is on.

Thanks for everything. I am learning a lot from this forum!


Tony

I believe.
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ccass15n
Average Member



USA
218 Posts

Posted - January 23 2012 :  23:54:53  Show Profile Send ccass15n a Private Message  Reply with Quote
the amount of torque or power with the one battery twin back emf was extremely low, the speed was less than half that of a normal ssg circuit i use on the 3 pole monopole kit, but none the less it did work very well, i just need to increase its speed and im sure there will be more to add to it to improve, im trying to figure out the best way to add in some voltage doublers both going into the circuit and coming out

"Visualize it, Make a Plan, Make It Happen"

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Ice_Viper220
Junior Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - January 24 2012 :  18:45:54  Show Profile Send Ice_Viper220 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey guys,
I have been away for a while I recently moved. Tinman here are the pics I said I would upload of the twin back emf circuit.

It works pretty well on my window motor. I was able to run it for over 3 days before having to charge my primary battery, that was alot better than my standard ssg where I got about 16 to 18 hours. I did something differnt than you did though, I used a diode between the emitter and base on both transistors. When I followed the design exactally I got a very slow rotor speed but that cleared it up for me.
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ccass15n
Average Member



USA
218 Posts

Posted - January 24 2012 :  21:07:56  Show Profile Send ccass15n a Private Message  Reply with Quote
hey ice viper, when you added the diode for both transistors did the speed go back to relatively what it was with a standard ssg?

"Visualize it, Make a Plan, Make It Happen"

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Ice_Viper220
Junior Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - January 25 2012 :  12:22:43  Show Profile Send Ice_Viper220 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Cass,
It made a difference in my setup, as for matching the rpms of the ssg I'm not sure it sounds the same to me but I do not have a rpm counter so I do not know for sure. I tried a few diodes a 4007, 4004 and 4001 I had the best results with the 4001 hope that helps you out.
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ccass15n
Average Member



USA
218 Posts

Posted - January 25 2012 :  19:49:48  Show Profile Send ccass15n a Private Message  Reply with Quote
ill give that a try and see if i get similar results, i dont have a rpm counter either so i base it off of sound as well lol

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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - February 06 2012 :  03:37:47  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey guy's -this is realy good seeing modification's on modified circuit's lol.It never dawn'd on me to put the diode on the trigger transistor-but in hindsite i should have done just that as it's working in the same condition's as the run transistor.Good job guy's.
Cass please let me know if doing this extends your run time-This maybe all that was needed to get this setup to cop even or >

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ccass15n
Average Member



USA
218 Posts

Posted - February 06 2012 :  08:04:10  Show Profile Send ccass15n a Private Message  Reply with Quote
will do, ill give it a go once i get free time from making my other coils

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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - February 13 2012 :  07:32:09  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Guys-just thought i'd add my charge dump circuit.


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mehran4868
Junior Member



79 Posts

Posted - July 25 2012 :  02:10:13  Show Profile Send mehran4868 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by TinMan

SSG run battery drain reduction mod




Hi TinMan,
I want to make this circuit,
What have you used the diodes in the trigger coil ?

Thank you
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mehran4868
Junior Member



79 Posts

Posted - July 25 2012 :  05:58:11  Show Profile Send mehran4868 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thank you, TinMan
This circuit works very well, :)
I've used 4001 diodes, should I use another diodes?

Edited by - mehran4868 on July 25 2012 05:59:00
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - July 25 2012 :  09:11:40  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi mehran
4001's are the one's you need.
But most of mine are 4004's,as 4001 are obsolete over here.
Grab an LED and put it across the 1k resistor and watch what happens to your amp draw.

swim at 90 degrees to the current and gain speed in two directions

skype-thetinman.69
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Zerosight
New Member



29 Posts

Posted - June 25 2015 :  17:56:59  Show Profile Send Zerosight a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi TinMan! Thank you for continuing to build and modify designs further. Really good variations. :)

I was hoping to build your "1 batt - double bump circuit" but have slight variations on resistor values available here. How far can I deviate from the 50 and 270ohm resistors and are they matched in anyway? e.g. a 220ohm difference or they should be within a certain % of each other? Or are they there to simply prevent a full 12v++ getting into the base? e.g. like a failsafe in case that pot is turned full open? :) So a 75ohm and 330 ohm variation should have the same effect, just that the rotor will run slower?

I will try this on an extra coil I have that has about 1000 turns on it with 20 and 24g wires. This was for an ssg but I think this should work fine. Will give it a go.

Also, I was trying to find the circuit by Cass where he adds the caps and ran it for 3 days with only a .01v loss. Was wondering where the caps were added as the pics or diagram for that mod is no longer available for viewing. Would you happen to recall how the caps were placed, or values used, etc so that I know I'm not copying an already done mod if I do some more r&d on it? :)

And to prevent possible fire / accidents as I understand this is one of the more sensitive circuits that could be disastrous if I make any mistakes along the way. hahaha. No pun intended but just keeping safe at my end. :)

Thank you!
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Kudzu
Administrator



USA
1619 Posts

Posted - June 25 2015 :  18:39:07  Show Profile Send Kudzu a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Tinman,
I was wondering if you heard of anybody using a incondesant bulb in place of the neon ?
I have a few 110v bulbs of various watts , all the way from 10 watt to 100 watt . I think I even have a couple street lamp bulbs , somewhere ..

Do you think they would protect just as well as a neon ???
I was thinking it just needed something to bleed off the high voltage spikes , so why is a neon only the suggested way to do it ?

=========================================
I still think the only dumb questions are the one's you didn't ask ...
=========================================
Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.

Benjamin Franklin
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Zerosight
New Member



29 Posts

Posted - June 25 2015 :  23:53:54  Show Profile Send Zerosight a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Kudzu! Thank you for not bashing me on reviving an old thread. I'm a newbie and the 3 year difference of posts may be far apart but I thought the relevant questions I have is best kept within thread of the original designs.

I hope I build the circuit right as I'm off to get materials later. Only 1/4 watt resistors left in the resistor inventory. :) Best if the 1w ones are used for this. hehe. Could never be too careful. :)

With regard to the neon vs incandescent bulb protection... The possible reason why neons are chosen above other drain loads is because the neons don't need a ballast to start the lighting. So you get immediate response or saving from the neons. With the incandescent, the bulbs still contain a ballast on board the bulbs. If without the ballast, I don't know if lighting is fast enough. Then there is the element inside that would act like a fuse as well. There is a possibility that the incandescent bulbs are less forgiving as the neons to sudden, continuous pulsed changes in voltage for it to light reliably each time you need it for protection. Finally, you have more glass to shatter on the incandescent vs the neons. The neons are easier to retro fit on the circuits vs the larger sized bulbs available to us.

So probably more of convenience if they do light up and don't burn out later on... :) I hope this helps.

Edited by - Zerosight on June 25 2015 23:58:51
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Kudzu
Administrator



USA
1619 Posts

Posted - June 26 2015 :  04:33:07  Show Profile Send Kudzu a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Zerosight,
Old threads are awesome !
The info buried in this site was always meant to have a kind of life of its own and be found and brought back for rewiew and improvement ...
Thanks for giving me some input on the neons , I could see where it may not be fast enough to protect a transistor .
Guess a big glass grenade wouldn't be fun either , hehe ...
Cheers

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I still think the only dumb questions are the one's you didn't ask ...
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Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.

Benjamin Franklin
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Zerosight
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Posted - June 26 2015 :  06:04:54  Show Profile Send Zerosight a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Haha! It is ironically fun to blow things up! I just fried one of the experimental SSGs I'm working on now. Currently, I'm reading the book as much as I'm experimenting to see what does what in the circuit. I still cannot achieve the 80% charge acquired per single run battery. But I'm able to get 800-1000rpm out of a 19.5hour run time and 50% captured on the current system.

Hopefully, I could get the clearer perspective to run the 2back EMF design and get that going. I'm heading out for parts now. The only thing different in this setup of mine is that mine will be running the 1000 turn SSG coil of 20 and 24 gauge wires instead of the prescribed winding and sizes. I think I'll need to have more resistance with the coil on hand since it would produce more juice I believe. Haha! I'll be wearing my welding mask, having a bucket beside me and will be covered with thick clothing while I'm at it.
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49er
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USA
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Posted - June 26 2015 :  08:59:41  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Zero

Your funny

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
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Zerosight
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29 Posts

Posted - June 26 2015 :  11:21:38  Show Profile Send Zerosight a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Doug! Haha :)

Your SS designs are great! Been taking a look at them. I'll surely be asking weird stuff about them too later on. :) Currently, I need to learn to take advantage o the mechanical advantage I get out of the wheels.

I'm trying to find the thread I've read about the advantage without the wheel with the SS system. I couldn't find it anymore so I could take notes. As the the drag adds to the drain I believe. But someone in youtube showed that even with load the pulse motors we are using get lesser drain from run batt vs those of an ordinary motor. Like drain is directly proportional to the kind of magnet size, balance, etc of the wheel and the speed it achieves. So as it slows down, the drain goes down as well.
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49er
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USA
4443 Posts

Posted - June 26 2015 :  13:26:27  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I Zero

I see you are reading and retaining . To help you some what with your drag problem, short a coil in a coil spot and see what you gain over all. I am working on a SS for this and think it will work for you. Also TM has been working on the same thing with a ferrite transformer set up that looks like it will loose a lot less but how much we will have to wait for his next update.

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE doug.bennett49er
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Zerosight
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29 Posts

Posted - June 26 2015 :  13:53:27  Show Profile Send Zerosight a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I'm about an hour away from the 2back EMF. Its almost 2am here and will be having dinner in a few minutes. Or at least just grab something from the kitchen. Too much time wasted away from the work bench. :)

When you say short out a coil on a spot, did you mean that I can use either of the two from the bifilar and see if one is shorter than the other to see a transformer effect occur? Theoretically this is possible. But the problem with the SSG is that it only does work and gives work while the transformer is open.

I can easily do away with the transformer and gear your way of SS by micro controller but to keep the transformer on a bit longer to produce another sin wave cycle is key maybe. Therefore, the frequency of pump is twice or more of the drain. Since the transformer induces current and voltage during the pumps. The drain just gives it enough power to live of to power the pump action. So doubling the pump or more vs the drain will give us more charge power.

And your idea of the transformer effect included will magnify the pump power as you get more pump power out of the controlled drain power.

Did I get this right?
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49er
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USA
4443 Posts

Posted - June 26 2015 :  16:26:16  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Zero

This is what I am getting at. 6:30 into the video TM shorts out a gen coil and see the speed up he gets out of it. Its Lenz law, This is just the out come that I am talking about, how you accomplish it is up to you but 1 trigger and 1 power on a coil and the rest of the coils you put on CAN be shorted to lesson the Lenz effect.

You must be logged in to see this link.

I have a good one for the transformer but can't find it right now so use TM's info to see what can be done.
What will this do to your 1 battery setup?????????? 2 shorts LOL

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE doug.bennett49er
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49er
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USA
4443 Posts

Posted - June 26 2015 :  17:24:07  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Zero

Just ran across this video and it is showing strange at its best. Magnet and coil in a coil can change your OHMS a lot ENJOY

You must be logged in to see this link.

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE doug.bennett49er
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Zerosight
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29 Posts

Posted - June 26 2015 :  18:37:30  Show Profile Send Zerosight a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Success! The 1 batt 2EMF setup works with my coil and current setup. But I reckon it could be sustained without loss further if I could add more caps to the circuit. For now, I've only added one to the batt in parallel. Will do the same on the other joints. :) And that cap seems to be a slow charge type. I need to find really fast ones.

Speed keeps slowly climbing at the right setting, oscillations are constantly paced. 778RPM with this setup, while on an ordinary SSG circuit max RPM is 1400 but with much more drag or return. Slow RPM is ok as long as I can get it to sustain power longer.

I think the key is to get the HDD spinning without needing its base as on the window motor. It should be levitated to free the setup from the drag caused by the base even if it is very slight compared to bearings. Or the setup should be big enough to make the base drag insignificant. :)

I'll see if I could make another coil exactly like this one and run it through the same circuit on the same transistors as the ones already installed. That should give it twice the effect and divide the drag by 2.

I've seen that vid earlier! Please correct me if I'm wrong... Yes, the RPM increases but this is actually not delaying the drag. Since it is shorted out, the base of the transistor receives a voltage minimum caused by the 330ohm resistor. So when the trigger allows power in, the base opens to max and closes to a minimum in relation to the resistor. It's like raising the floor. The reason for the transistor blowing out is because the transistor doesn't have time to get a full rest state from each cycle. Like from 1-10 where 1 is closed and 10 is wide open. The 330ohm resistor allows only a rest state of 3 for example. Since it doesn't close fully, the negative or inverted magnetic field isn't as strong to cause drag. But then the transistor is working at a -30 duty cycle. Then it blows out after heating up so much.

I'll try out some stuff during the week and see how that goes to achieve the same effect.

But in order to take away the lenz effect on the pole of the magnet, it needs to be delayed. So a setup with magnets far apart is actually allowing drag in areas where the magnets aren't present. So adding more of the same pole on the tail side of the main magnet should do the trick. And then suddenly an opposite pole. So when the trigger closes, the opposite pole magnet is directly above it. But that would simply work at a selected RPM only. What we want is to allow higher speeds.

I thick your pwm setup on the SS would work here.

Edited by - Zerosight on June 26 2015 18:56:42
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