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 Jig's, Coil winder jigs, Core molds/jigs and so on
 Fe3O4
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Poppy
Average Member


USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 05 2012 :  18:46:56  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Everybody...

I got my black iron oxide and made a core using the oxide with 2 part epoxy as a binder. I made the mixture extremely thick and it was hard to work with. I initially put tape over one end of the coil and tried to pack it with the goop but, was unsuccessful in that pressure kept building up in the core and bubbling up and out. Finally I took the tape off and pushed the mixture through so that it would protrude out the other end. Then I would clip it off and add that back through the core until it was totally full.

Alas...WHAT A DISAPOINTMENT! The new core had a very insignificant amount of force to drive the rotor. I removed all the wire and put it on one of my coat hanger filled coils and it worked great.

Probably need help!

Good Experimenting...
Poppy

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kcarring
Moderator



Canada
1057 Posts

Posted - February 05 2012 :  19:51:45  Show Profile Send kcarring a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Poppy.

Sorry bout the luck. I've often thought about cores, variants, etc., and glad you posted your results; good or bad. I hope to investigate this more too, one step at a time though; my thoughts are that (obviously?) solid state and rotor based really have two different requirements. That -should- be a given. I see much greater charge effects (if just plain charge rate is the goal) with an air core running at low HZ, drawing much more current. But I also wonder.. how saturated is that air core, and how much current actually gets to the battery, can it be backed off and have a better effect? I know that an MPPT inductor very much works like that, you need fast switching, and some field, but the goal is not to saturate the coil, as well...

Now, I tend to like JB's thinking in this department, the broken down rods have a lot of merit to their consideration.

And here is my only different though:

Has anyone every tried crushed ferrite dust (smashed up ferrite). Then lay it out smooth on table top. Spray paint it with acrylic enamel, lightly misting over it. Stir. Paint. Stir. Paint. In other words, take some of the contact away.

Repack it in the core.

Cheap to try anyway. Sort of a ferrite hybrid, as to pass less current, but saturate deeper than an air core.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You wouldn't laugh at my igloo if you knew how cold my beer is!
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 05 2012 :  20:13:56  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hello Poppy,

I have been doing my research on the Magnetite (Fe3O4).

One thing that has been said in several video's I have watched, is that the core needs to be properly aligned as it sets.

I am on the understanding that when the Fe3O4 is wet with the epoxy mix and inside the center of the core, to take a magnet on each end of the coil (use some wax paper between the magnets and epoxy so the magnets do not stick to the epoxy mix) so the material will align to fire magnetically correct when the coil is on. Let the magnets stay on and let the material set that way (remove the magnets once the epoxy is set).

My plan is to align the core North at the front as that is how the coil will fire. I am told that this will eliminate cogging.

I will be molding the magnetite core as an independent cylinder, so it can slide into a coil center in my first experiments, that will allow different methods to find the best core.

You should try the magnetic alignment next.

Here is a video about a Muller coil and they talk about the Magnetite core needing to be magnetically aligned right.



Alan

Edited by - hkalan on February 05 2012 21:24:33
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 05 2012 :  21:29:29  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Alan...

Interesting video, it would have been beneficial if the narrator would have given some wire sizes, core lengths and spool diameters. Still over all a place to start. I, of course, will try to build another ferrite core, this time with the alignment magnets. I could not tell if the lesser wire was at the front of the coil or the rear. Do you have an idea of the wire placement?

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 05 2012 :  21:30:40  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Poppy,

Have you taken a magnet and picked up the coil by attaching it to the core..

How well does a magnet stick to the core you have now ??

Alan
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 05 2012 :  21:43:27  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Poppy,

From the Muller Motors I have seen, the front of the coil has the most turns of wire.

This got me thinking... if the first coil is only 1 layer, then he must be winding the coil backwards (start wire becomes end wire, and end wire is start wire) as the way I wind the coils for the SSG.

Here is another video from a guy that has a Muller Motor and coils.



Alan
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - February 05 2012 :  22:24:30  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi guys- the coil windings have the most windings at the back of each coil and the two ends that face each other are the ends with the least amount of windings. The reason for doing this is to get the effect of a permanent magnet were each end has a strong magnetic field and the centre of the two coils together remains neutral

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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 06 2012 :  01:08:02  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey TM,

I did not know that !!!

Very good to know !!!

Alan

Edited by - hkalan on February 06 2012 01:55:24
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 06 2012 :  02:23:19  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Poppy,

I found this in another forum when I did a google search



Alan
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twally67
Average Member



USA
251 Posts

Posted - February 06 2012 :  03:13:35  Show Profile Send twally67 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
sorry to hear your problem (and disappointment) that is why since my coils are small i use cores from 100mH inductors...(they are about 1/4 inch and fit in my spools just fine) and they work great...now with that you could try online to get ferrite rods to the size you need...and not waste trying to cast your own..but if you want another try then use a lighter resin that doesn't expand much and fill your forms under vacuum that is the only way i have seen it done....

sometimes meltdowns though kinda $$ make the best inspirations!!!

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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - February 06 2012 :  03:15:50  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The last post i read that peter posted(which i posted on here somewere)said -if you havnt bought my DVD or attended my seminar,do not post here--in this one here is some guy trying to seek his help and then good old peter says!!that is it.No more question's.
What a total dropkick this bloke is-clearly only interested in helping those that fill his pockets.

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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 06 2012 :  03:37:41  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey TM,

Greed has a way of slowing progress...

Sad isn't it !

Alan
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 06 2012 :  10:02:24  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Everybody...

Thanks for all the comments and the much needed help with the Fe3O3 cores. I will indeed try again and this time I'll get it right. The first core was attracted by a magnet but was not able to pick it up.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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Magneticitist
Senior Member



USA
681 Posts

Posted - February 06 2012 :  12:29:37  Show Profile  Visit Magneticitist's Homepage Send Magneticitist a Private Message  Reply with Quote
lol @ Peter.

my question is since lodestone is known to be magnetic, or naturally magnetized magnetite, why is it that the sand needs to be "polarized" while its curing? i mean that would only be assuming it was already magnetized right? i dont know but i would think the solid core could be magnetized just the same by leaving the neos on there long enough even after curing, but then you have a core that is now a permanent magnet dont you?

[on the gravy train with biscuit wheels]
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kcarring
Moderator



Canada
1057 Posts

Posted - February 06 2012 :  13:00:08  Show Profile Send kcarring a Private Message  Reply with Quote
No more questions Mag, you heard the man, He's got a day job now. In Canada we have a term for that. It's called "Twit".

~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You wouldn't laugh at my igloo if you knew how cold my beer is!

Edited by - kcarring on February 06 2012 13:01:24
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twally67
Average Member



USA
251 Posts

Posted - February 06 2012 :  17:31:20  Show Profile Send twally67 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
try alt-nrg.org this guy named Z is trying to build these type of cores but he is using a form then is inside a vacuum chamber to pour and set the cores..i guess this way you get no micro bubbles in them and helps compact the core...

sometimes meltdowns though kinda $$ make the best inspirations!!!

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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 08 2012 :  14:30:18  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Everybody...

I tried another core with Fe3O4 and got worse results than before the motor wouldn't even run. I made a paper form to create the core, mixed the 2 part epoxy with the black oxide and filled the form so that the length was 3". I capped off the bottom so the mixture would not leak out, I placed 2 - 3" magnets on either side of the mold to manage the alignment. When it hardened I tore the paper off the core leaving one layer still on the core. I glued two ends on the core to make a spool leaving about 1/4" inch protruding from the face of the spool. I wrapped 400 winds for the trigger and 900 for the run. Spun the rotor and it slowly ran down without starting the motor.

Any Ideas beyond those already contributed.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 08 2012 :  18:30:19  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Everybody...

I rewound the coil putting the run wire on first and then wrapping the trigger wire over it and got the same results. The motor does not run.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 08 2012 :  22:48:01  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hello Poppy,

I am scratching my head right now.... How strong are the magnets you use to align the material ?

I read the post from Peter L... And I look into the words he used... He said, place the strong magnets on the "Sides"... I have been thinking ends... Maybe that is a factor...

Have a look at what I mean in the image below !



I do not know... But this is also making think It may need a VERY Strong Magnet if it is on the Ends.

Magnets from a Large industrial motor... now that would align the material fore sure.

Alan

Edited by - hkalan on February 08 2012 22:52:58
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  00:12:18  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hello SD,

That is the way it looks, and that is why I am thinking it needs to be a very strong Magnet that is used to align it.

I am tracking my Magnetite, and it is currently in route to Hong Kong from China (Ground service or "snail mail" as they say).

I would think that once the mix is set, you should be able to take any magnet on the front of the core and pick the coil up by placing any magnet to the core diameter in the front... if it is not able to do so, then the core material is not fully aligned and in "Parallel" so when the coil is on, it does not have the full force it should.

Here is an example I found on YouTube... The first video shows one way of doing it, but it is not thick enough and you will see why in the second video...



This is the video of how to make the magnetite for the core (but he does not align the core, as it sets "from what I see")





Alan

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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  02:51:35  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hello Poppy,

What is the "Pull" strength of the magnets you put on the core ends ?

Here is what I am thinking...

As the Fe3O4 is very thick when made as a paste, I am going to assume that it will need a very strong magnetic "Pull" to assure the material will align properly (in parallel) within the 2 part epoxy mix/paste.

This is my understanding. The Fe3O4 is not a magnet, but a material that will magnetize rapidly when the coil is energized, and why the Fe3O4 Material needs to be aligned, so the magnetic field created will have a greater force when ON. Then when the coil is off, the magnetic field turns off instantly. This the Fe3O4 alignment is truly for when the coil is turned on.

So could it be that the use of, say... 40 lb. to 60 lb. PULL magnets being used on each end would fully align the material as it dries...

I was talking with SD on Skype today, and he had a great Idea of using 2 electromagnet's. It can be turned on when in place to align the material, and then released instantly when all the material is set.. but we would need to know the "pull" force of the electromagnet.

Just a thought... that is why I think the magnets from a large industrial motor would be fantastic for the alignment.

I may be wrong, but I could be right... but I do know right now, I am going down to the metal scrap yard today to get some really strong magnets ready for when I receive my Fe3O4... the more people that are trying this with different methods will help find an answer for everyone.

Alan
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  06:32:53  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hello Poppy,

I went down and got a few magnets to see what it would take to really align a Magnetite core..

Have a look at what I am thinking...



What are your thoughts ?

Alan
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  10:44:34  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Alan...

I placed the magnets on the sides of the form not on the ends. They were 3" bar magnets made of ceramic. After the core hardened I used a neo to see if it could be picked up and it was easily attracted to the core and lifted quite nicely.

Totally at a loss since the maker of the above video did not use any magnetism to align his core. The consistency of my mixture was quite a bit thicker than his but was still very workable.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  12:20:13  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Poppy,

Those video's are 2 years old... And the odd thing is that there is no video of any Magnetite core coil that he made ever shown in action.

I cannot find one video anywhere, that shows a Magnetite core used and compared it with Iron or Ferrite core.

There is a lot of talk and documents, but not one actually in action on a video !!!

Alan
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  15:22:02  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Alan...

I too have searched for videos showing black iron oxide as the core of a run coil and as of now have not found any. I'm beginning to wonder if anyone has been successful in making these coils work.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  16:47:26  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Everybody...

Success!!!!

The coil with the black iron oxide is indeed working!!!

It must have needed one more day to cure. I have to place it half the distance closer to the rotor than is needed for the coat hanger core.



Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  16:59:01  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi poppy-another great vidio.Having to move the coil closer would indicate that the fe304 core dosnt induct the magnetic field quite as good as the steel core dose.Any idea on the output of both type's of core?

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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  17:28:12  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Tinman...

The Pulsed output was 140ma and the V-Doubler output was 270ma with an input of 510ma for only 27% and 53% efficiency. Not lookin' good for the Fe3O4. Maybe after it cures a few more days it will get better. After all yesterday it didn't work at all.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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iaec
Forum Admin



1033 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  17:30:01  Show Profile Send iaec a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Poppy,

I see you answer my question that i`ve ask in the PM section :)

TimberJack

***Possibilities Within The Impossible***

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TinMan
Advanced Member



4082 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  18:00:50  Show Profile Send TinMan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Poppy- do you have a coil with an iron rod core? Would love to see the differences between the two core types

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Kudzu
Administrator



USA
1619 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  19:24:28  Show Profile Send Kudzu a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Poppy ,
Are you thinking the core is drying from the outside in, so as center of the core dries more should conduct a magnetic field better ?
It would seem something chemically is happening like that inside the core , for in not to even work the day before ..
That is cool, maybe it will eventually dry or cure to the point to become the best core you ever had / here's for hoping anyway .

==================================================

I still think the only dumb questions are the one's you didn't ask ...
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  20:30:18  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Kudzu...

To your question Yes. If you check out the Pulse Motor Thread and Switchable Pulse and V-Doubler Motor you will see the results already attained.

@SD3T the mixture was very thick and heavy. It could not be poured into the mold. I used 3" bar magnets overnight but, as I said before, the motor would not run when the Fe3O4 coil was connected. It has been 48 hours now and the coil is working very well. I will make more coils with this core.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy

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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  20:33:08  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hello Poppy

Good to see it working.

This is a great result !

You had aligned the material with magnets on each side, so this makes me think about what the result would be if it were aligned from end to end, and had the magnets on for 24 to 36 hours until it was fully cured.

Great stuff !!!

Alan
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msmjr
Average Member



USA
444 Posts

Posted - February 09 2012 :  23:55:06  Show Profile Send msmjr a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Gratz Poppy
Glad you stuck with it, looks like the magnets are the key. It gives me faith that an idea ive had will work.

Growing old is mandatory, Growing up optional.
He is wise who gains wisdom from another's mishaps.
—Plutius Syrus
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 10 2012 :  03:34:00  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Poppy...

Are you using Fe3O4 or Fe2O4 ??

Alan
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 10 2012 :  13:30:57  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Alan...

It says Fe3O4 on the order and it says Fe3O4 (black iron oxide) on the package.

To All: I made another core last night and let it cure for 12 hours. This time I did it without using any magnets near the core. I made a form from acetate the length I wanted the coil to be and placed a piece of aluminum tape over the bottom to keep the mixture from running out. BTW the acetate did not stick to the epoxy mixture and left the core shiny and smooth. I first wound 450 winds of wire for the trigger coil and over that 500 winds for the run coil. It did not work. I removed the run wire and wound another 450 turns over the trigger wire and connect the end of the first wire to the start of the second wire making the trigger 900 turns. I then wound 1000 winds of wire for the run coil, connected the coil to the circuit and it worked. It must be the number of windings not the use of magnets to align the particles.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 10 2012 :  22:30:30  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Poppy

This is some really great experimenting !

You are clearing the path for a better system !!!

Great Stuff !!!

Alan

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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 11 2012 :  08:17:09  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi SD...

After the coil is wrapped and ready I wire it up and run the motor. It seems the more it is used the better it works.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 11 2012 :  08:20:14  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Alan...

Speaking of bad Newspapers I worked for one of the worst until I couldn't stand it anymore.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 11 2012 :  08:29:29  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Poppy

So there is a lot of truth in my statement LOL

Alan

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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 12 2012 :  01:01:22  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Poppy,

Looking at the geological make-up of Hong Kong Islands, I see it has a high level of Iron. I grabbed a stack of magnets and went down to a beach that was near the cove where NO people go, and drag the magnet under the sand (about 2cm under) and came up with a mix of grain size "black sand: stuck to the magnet... Here is what I will try to use for a few core's



Alan

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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 12 2012 :  06:44:29  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Alan...

Very nice!

I've seen videos where people are collecting the magnetic sand for use in a variety of electronic experiments. When I was with the Unnamed Forum several experimenters were using black sand in their experiments.

I had a thought (watch for smoke) that if the Fe304 was packed tightly in the core of the coil using aluminum tape to cap both ends that this might work better than diluting the oxide with a binder.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 12 2012 :  12:20:28  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Poppy

I was thinking he same thought today ! I was chatting with SD and he felt strongly about the ePoxy to hold things tight... I think it is the first step... And this looks like a fun path to explore LOL

Alan

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screaminvern
Junior Member



USA
121 Posts

Posted - February 12 2012 :  14:00:21  Show Profile Send screaminvern a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Poppy, great thread!! I was one of those on the Unnamed Forum who collected black sand and was messing around with it. I never made it as far with the experimenting as you have with your iron oxide, but I had lined a 12" long, 3/4" dia. copper pipe with wax paper and filled it with the ferrous material I got out of the sand.

I would hold the pipe in one hand while running a N42 back and forth across an end of the pipe. I found it interesting that I could feel a current being produced; not a strong current by any means, but still a current. It was similar to what I feel when I'm hooked up to my blood zapper, just not as strong. This is what caused me to start researching the N-Machine.

{History does "not" repeat it's self, idiots repeat history.}
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 13 2012 :  09:33:37  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi SV...

It's great to have you with us. Hope to see some or your stunning videos soon.

I have a friend at the VFW who is into quantum physics and believes an electric current can be produced by passing a magnetic field past anything. For example, he says if a pipe is magnetized and then water is forced through the pipe electricity will be produced.

On another note: I made another Fe3O4 coil and wrapped it with 700 turns of trigger wire with 700 turns of run wire. And guess what! It didn't work. So I removed the run wire and added 500 more turns of trigger wire then wound 1400 turns of run wire over that. It worked! But it got so hot because of the resistive nature of the trigger wire I had to shut it down. This core was 1/2" leading me to believe that the 3/4" core is much better. With these results it might be wise to try a 1" core to see if that gives better reflection.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 14 2012 :  10:17:58  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Everybody...

I made another core with the Fe3O4 powder. This time it was made without a binding agent. I capped off one end of the coil core with aluminum tape and filled the core with the black iron oxide packing it as tightly as possible. Then when the substance was overflowing it was capped with another piece of aluminum tape. I removed all the wire that was on the spool and replaced it with new. The run wire was wound first with 600 turns then over that 600 turns of trigger wire. It worked the first time it was hooked up. No muss, no fuss no problems.



Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 14 2012 :  12:19:06  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Poppy

That is fantastic !!!!!

Great job !!!

Simple and quick is the best !!!!

What are the ohms of each coil ???

Alan

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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 14 2012 :  15:42:08  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Alan...

The Run coil Ohms measured 6.7 and the trigger 23.6.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 14 2012 :  23:24:03  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Everybody...

I made another loose oxide coil, this time with a 3/4" PVC center. It did not work very well. So I am thinking the one that worked was due to the magnetic field being created in the pot iron pipe, used as the spool center, with that energy being transferred to the oxide.

Good Experimenting...
Poppy
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Poppy
Average Member



USA
418 Posts

Posted - February 16 2012 :  10:44:33  Show Profile Send Poppy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Everybody...

I put together another loose oxide coil using the pot metal center spool and it works quite well. I am looking to find a thin wall plastic tubing to use as a center. I think the wall of the pvc pipe is too thick reducing the magnetic field produced in the oxide.

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hkalan
Senior Member



Hong Kong
1019 Posts

Posted - February 16 2012 :  11:19:19  Show Profile  Visit hkalan's Homepage Send hkalan a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi Poppy

You lucked out and avoided furry magnets on your rotor LOL

I agree with you about the PVC pipe being too thick of a wall. I was thinking about drilling it to be a thin wall... I have gone and ordered some 19mm diameter tubes that have a 0.80mm wall.

What is "pot metal" ???

Alan

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