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49er
Administrator


USA
4427 Posts

Posted - November 11 2013 :  13:54:53  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Dave and ODR

We can all save with this one

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USA
Mountain View


olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 11 2013 :  15:21:14  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Since I don't know how to move the thread to here, this is the link to the original
You must be logged in to see this link.

That is of course, if interested..


Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 11 2013 :  15:43:56  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
This video is right up my alley right now.
Thank you for sharing!

My original concept of a press is much different now and is like what this guy is doing in the video.
A simple hand (or body weight) levered press.
Why?
Because I'm re-loading the press at least 3 times to make a log and that is still only half the tube.

I'm also on the border of the split form.
I see benefit, I also see issues like I see with my simple chalking gun press.
What I do like is the center 'drainage hole' and could just be the answer I'm looking for.
This also means a larger log..

Issue; Holes don't work because of resistance as you retrieve your log. They cause drag and break apart the log.
Slots allow the log to move freely, think he also believes the same..
The excess material from the slot also aids in starting the log.

My little experiment shows the straps, needed to hold the shape, cause this same drag..
In his video, he shows a solid split form, which removes the straps (my current issue) and uses the center drain to extract the water.
I really like this!!
As I mentioned above, means larger log because more air is going to move through it.

I'm getting ahead of myself here and still haven't done the burn test to check heat value.
I like what I 'see', blue's vs yellow flames.





[quote]Originally posted by 49er

Hi Dave and ODR

I just ran across this doing my research on this for my house and found it very interesting.

You must be logged in to see this link.

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.

Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 12 2013 :  12:38:16  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The latest mix on the drying rack



Far left is the shredded paper briquette
Center is the new mix with leaves made from my quickie brick press
Right is the leaf mix made from the large chalking gun

The leaf mash I followed the recipe of 70% leaf to 30% paper.
The guy in Doug's video, I believe, is doing it this way as well.
I think it's a bit weak on binder (the paper)..
But hey, what do I know.. I never done this before..

They do look pretty cool though!

The tell will be tomorrow (or the next) when dry to see how they hold together.
Then, of course, how they burn.


Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!


Edited by - olddawgsrule on November 12 2013 12:45:40
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49er
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USA
4427 Posts

Posted - November 13 2013 :  15:14:34  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

If they come apart easily then mix a little flour and water for paste and mix that in. LOL back to playing in the mud.

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE doug.bennett49er
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Kudzu
Administrator



USA
1619 Posts

Posted - November 13 2013 :  15:52:19  Show Profile Send Kudzu a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey 49er,
Keep a check on craigslist and your local swap , trade , sell papers ... My Pop got a used insert for there fireplace for $450 , it sold new for $1200 and wasn't even broken in yet ... People buy houses all the time and sell the insert's and wood heater's cause they don't wanna mess with wood or such ..
Beware of scammers though , don't send em any money !

I'm on the lookout for us a cheap insert myself , to have to replace the gas log's that came with this house .

If my neighbor get's his Wrecker business back up and going, I hope to start getting stuff to trade with soon , hehe
You'd be amazed the stuff folk's want you to haul away or to pay you to haul away !
Since I never have money , I love horse swapping !

=========================================
I still think the only dumb questions are the one's you didn't ask ...
=========================================
Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.

Benjamin Franklin
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 13 2013 :  17:47:50  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I like to think of it as mash...
But, then again, it's does look like mud, LOL!

It holds together very well.
The paper is a good binder!

quote:
Originally posted by 49er

Hi ODR

If they come apart easily then mix a little flour and water for paste and mix that in. LOL back to playing in the mud.

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE doug.bennett49er




Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 13 2013 :  17:50:13  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
You're on my page here!
Watch the social seller pages.
It's wild what they'll give away!


quote:
Originally posted by Kudzu

Hey 49er,
Keep a check on craigslist and your local swap , trade , sell papers ... My Pop got a used insert for there fireplace for $450 , it sold new for $1200 and wasn't even broken in yet ... People buy houses all the time and sell the insert's and wood heater's cause they don't wanna mess with wood or such ..
Beware of scammers though , don't send em any money !

I'm on the lookout for us a cheap insert myself , to have to replace the gas log's that came with this house .

If my neighbor get's his Wrecker business back up and going, I hope to start getting stuff to trade with soon , hehe
You'd be amazed the stuff folk's want you to haul away or to pay you to haul away !
Since I never have money , I love horse swapping !

=========================================
I still think the only dumb questions are the one's you didn't ask ...
=========================================
Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.

Benjamin Franklin




Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 13 2013 :  18:20:08  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Here's todays batch



Camera lighting is good on the right 3
That's what I want you to notice.

This is a second day soak and what I saw was a 'bleed' from the leaves to create a darker color in the mash.

Is this the resin coming through?

Only used half the batch too allow a longer soak.

I attempted a 15% mositure content burn today.
I just had to try...
Hard start, weak burn and will the let rest dry further.

Here's my latest chart..
Tell me what to add



I've learned you can break down molecular structure to determine what it should do.
Having a hard time finding a chart of values that helps us in this.
What I have seen and learned, so far, is the paper briquettes do what their supposed to to do.
<7,000 BTU
As a binding agent, and a burnable substance, yet to be proven best..

More to come, that is... if interested..




Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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49er
Administrator



USA
4427 Posts

Posted - November 14 2013 :  13:56:17  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

Keep us informed its all good


Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE doug.bennett49er
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 14 2013 :  17:14:36  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Well now,to my surprise, I went to the stove today to see if the failed block experiment at least dried the block enough to burn.
Found nothing but dust!
They did burn.
No heat value, but as I stated (or hope I did), mositure content was high.

Still drying blocks for further experiments (should say personal understanding).

One thing I have learned here that has stuck is:
Keep good records!!
Never know when someone is coming to come along and say....
and you don't have a record to check back on.

Again, if you see something I'm missing from the list, please tell me..
With each burn I find something else...


Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 14 2013 :  17:40:27  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The prototype brick press does what I hoped it would!
Burn testing is still awaiting a good mositure content read.

Here's the basic working press and why I like it.



The re-build will come.. Work is getting in the way..LOL!

Structure needs to be stronger, probably heading towards a complete 2x4 build.
Base I think needs to be slotted, allow water to drain better and possibly a catch of fluid (uncertain yet how important this may be to re-use).
I am a proponent of slots over holes, but I don't see this as much an issue when not using paper only (or so I see). I am going to step up to 3/16" holes and add quite a few more and higher up, especially if using a bio product like leaves.

Probably won't re-build this weekend (shame because temps are coming up), that dam work thing just gets in the way.. Have to fix that..

I'm no where near done understanding the possibilities or probabilities of this.

More to come.

Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 14 2013 :  18:05:57  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
@ Kudzu; I hope my slang came across correctly, because I like the way you think!

Dollar for dollar, the caulking gun is the cheapest way to go, just labor intensive.
The press may cost a few more dollars (and time), but produces more for the afford.

I'll track my cost (or what would be the cost since I can get most for free) as I re-build the press into the working version.






Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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Kudzu
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USA
1619 Posts

Posted - November 15 2013 :  00:06:27  Show Profile Send Kudzu a Private Message  Reply with Quote
@ ODR,
It's good , I understood ...
I'm following along .
I just don't wanna sidetrack ya , you seem to have a fair system your working out .


=========================================
I still think the only dumb questions are the one's you didn't ask ...
=========================================
Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.

Benjamin Franklin
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screaminvern
Junior Member



USA
121 Posts

Posted - November 15 2013 :  14:36:56  Show Profile Send screaminvern a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Great thread Guys!!
@ Kudzu: Earlier you asked if a sausage stuffer would work. I worked for 20 yrs in a sausage kitchen, so what kind of a stuffer are you talking about?

{History does "not" repeat it's self, idiots repeat history.}
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Kudzu
Administrator



USA
1619 Posts

Posted - November 15 2013 :  15:50:51  Show Profile Send Kudzu a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Vern,
I've seen em bigger with various size hoppers & outlet tubes but, here is one type , I had in mind .
You must be logged in to see this link.
As long as one wasn't modified to much it could always be washed and used to stuff sausage also .


The other type I was thinking of ( but can't find an image to show it ) lay's the tube flat and stuff's horizontally ... If a cap with hole's on end was fabricated it could be used to press the desired thickness , then pull the cap to ram the log out ( for lack of a better term ) .

@ODR,
Have you tried a screen to drain the water before you move it to the press ?
If it's already macerated and mixed . I would think an old window screen over a container to lay it on for a few minuet's before it's added to a press may cut down on the mess , just a thought .


=========================================
I still think the only dumb questions are the one's you didn't ask ...
=========================================
Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.

Benjamin Franklin
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 15 2013 :  17:27:24  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
@ODR,
Have you tried a screen to drain the water before you move it to the press ?
If it's already macerated and mixed . I would think an old window screen over a container to lay it on for a few minuet's before it's added to a press may cut down on the mess , just a thought .

A good thought as well!
My though was to just use some of my 'animal defense' screen, witch I use for sifting dirt.
It's form to fit a drywall bucket and could work well.
I'll give it a go

I'm undetermined as to keeping the mash liqiud as a benefit..
I'm still believing it is..
It's the clay content that bothers me.
Does the liquid have more clay wash then pulp wash..
Hmm..
If more clay wash, then a pre-drain may just be a very good answer!
Then of course throw away the bath water.




Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 15 2013 :  17:29:30  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey Doug... For some strange reason I can not subscribe to this topic..
I'm not finding the option...


Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!


Edited by - olddawgsrule on November 15 2013 17:42:58
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 15 2013 :  18:10:23  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The dry time on my leaf mix is taking much too long..
Seems to be holding @ 12% on average
I'm now debating the soaking of the Leaves..

Next batch will be dry leaf added just before pressing.
And to follow what Kudzu suggests, a pre-drain before adding the leaves.

I do believe the paper will still bind the leaves.
The mix ratio comes into question, but to remain true it will stay 70/30.







Old in age, not in mind, so
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49er
Administrator



USA
4427 Posts

Posted - November 15 2013 :  18:27:21  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

The subscription is on. Hey the press looks like its is doing good and your right a 2x4 I think will work better (May squeeze more water out) you may want to put a drain pipe in the center I think it would dry better Good work

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE doug.bennett49er
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 16 2013 :  15:00:05  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
There it is!!
The subscribe option has returned!!

Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 16 2013 :  15:32:56  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
If I do decide to go any larger with the bricks, then I believe the center drain is a necessity to get them to dry in any reasonable length of time.

Had no time for a real run/test of some dry bricks last night.
Wifey had built a very nice small fire (she's better then me now at working the stove).
As she went to add another piece of wood, I mentioned adding one of my leaf blocks. She smiled and complied. That don't happen often enough..LOL..

First block went in and just took off!
5 minutes in settled down to a nice fire.
10 minutes later the second brick went in.

I did not take any readings and I will do this again and record.
What I did notice was a slight increase in flue temp and our 'heat activated' fan picked up some speed (meaning, surface temp went up).

Time, I value as quick. Lasted as much as 30 minutes, nothing more.

I'm envisioning quite a stack of these things...





Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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49er
Administrator



USA
4427 Posts

Posted - November 16 2013 :  19:39:20  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

Like my wife once she learns about something that saves money she uses it to the extreme. So start making your blocks with MASS production.. LOL its all good

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE doug.bennett49er
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 17 2013 :  14:47:36  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The latest burn


The sheet


They are quick burns, as I've noted before.
Compression of brick/log will change lenght of time, yet probably not heat gain.

I'm currently looking for a good piece of math to prove or dis-prove the Gross Calorific Value I'm working with.
GCV says I'm working with 6,500 to 7,000 Btu's..
From what I see, and experience of wood burning, I see I'm getting there quicker, just no where near length of time.

GCV may just be correct.
It just doesn't take into consideration compression of the material.
Or, I haven't learned yet this doesn't matter..

I know the size of the firebox (1.5 cubic feet)
I'm attempting to determine the mass of the cast iron stove
I have a feeling there's some math out there, I haven't found yet, that will use one or both of these to determine exactly how much Btu is being produced.
I'll continue to record, sooner or later, as I've learned, it will become important.

If nothing else, I've had some fun with fire! LOL!

Oh yes..
No weight values yet and I know that will be important.
As an 'old hippie' it's hard to understand why I don't have a good scale around here..
As Donovan once said.."I've changed my ways"! LOL!
These dam digital scales need batteries..
My old one never did..






Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 24 2013 :  13:16:15  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Found a piece of math that should work for what I'm looking for.
Please review and let me know if I'm looking at this correctly.

The thought is to calculate heat transfer
Basically measuring the amount of heat transferred to the air in the firebox.

Formula: amount of heat transferred = mass x change in temperature x specific heat (this is represented as q = m(DT)Cp

Mass of air:
At 60F mass of air is stated as 2.373 slugs (which I've learned is the correct way to reach weigh), then multiply by 32.2

My stove has a 2 cubic foot firebox
152.82 lbs = 270.74 grams

Change in Temp;
Firebox start / 23.89C
Firebox high / 72.78C
48.89C rise in temperature

Specific Heat of air;
specific heat capacity of dry air is 1.006 kJ/kgC

Here's where I convert kJ/kg to j/g by multiplying by 1000
1.006 = 1,006 J/gC

270.74 (mass) x 48.89C (rise) x 1,006 (specific heat) = 13,315,897.47 Joules x .0009478 (1 joule = 0.00094781712 british thermal units
) = 12,649.72 BTU's

I do realize, that once at 160F, the specific weight is reduced by half, thus only producing 6,000 odd BTU's.
6,000 BTU's matches yet another formula I tried to see potential heat transfer..

Main focus here is to see if I did the math correctly.

Personally, I was very surprised to see it match out so close to an earlier attempt.
This simple carpenter is still learnin' and having fun at it!

Note;
In previewing my own post I may have found an issue..
I'm determining weight in F not C which would be close to half stated.. Then again, it's also per cubic meter factored in C..
Still learning here.. Have to think about this one a bit..

Any other points that should be changed or looked at?







Old in age, not in mind, so
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Edited by - olddawgsrule on November 24 2013 13:20:51
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49er
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USA
4427 Posts

Posted - November 24 2013 :  14:42:46  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

It seams to me if it is wrong it would be ok as long as you have a good base line with a same weight of hard wood then you have a good base line for YOU. just make all samples test with the same calculations.

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE doug.bennett49er
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 24 2013 :  15:56:33  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Now that's what I've been doing, leaving me with a comparison
I think this takes me out of a baseline and shows me the value

The problem with baseline so far is, dry oak does not match up in time constraint..

I'm looking for a better way to judge or compare.

I still see a room full of bio-bricks to match up to my dry oak.
But they do burn.. and seems rarer well.
Will "I" change over.. probably not.
A possible 'shoulder' fuel?
Yes, seems to have possibilities..

The math will decide whether or not I have this right.
What I 'see' is close to what the math says..

Again, I'm just a curious kinda guy..






Old in age, not in mind, so
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49er
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USA
4427 Posts

Posted - November 24 2013 :  16:57:07  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

Also remember the other thing. Cost Savings LOL put that into your figures.

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE doug.bennett49er
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 25 2013 :  16:32:51  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Oh I think I can put that to rest right now.
It's what you consider your time value.

If you consider what time is involved in 'free' wood.
Briquette's take less time by a large margin.
If you consider equipment costs of briquette's vs 'free' wood,
again briquette's win by a large margin.

The issue to me so far is, the amount of briquette's vs 'good old' hardwood.
So far the amount is 4 to 5 times as much briquette vs hardwood.

I would be looking at 8 to 10 cord worth of briquette to match up to what I burn now.
Yet, even that amount, would be easier and cheaper to do.
If you do not take your time value into consideration..

My lot allows me 3/4 cord yearly with not effect.
I have a 'Green space' next door of a bit larger size and have Stewardship over it.
That gets me close to what I burn for wood.
Time..

Seriously, I look to buy cord-wood, cut, split, delivered, around $100 a cord (green).
That cuts my 'Time value' immensely!
I just had 2 cord delivered ($260) for next year (little more than I wished to pay, but best pricing I've seen this year).
Still within the range of time involved to be worth the value.





[quote]Originally posted by 49er

Hi ODR

Also remember the other thing. Cost Savings LOL put that into your figures.



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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 26 2013 :  15:44:19  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hit the teens yesterday so the woodstove went into full action!
Worked out well for a better baseline and math check.

Had a great fire, by that I mean hot not full.
Full doesn't always mean more..

My woodstove is rated at 60,000 Btu's
I have always figured it to be closer to 50-55,000 Btu's, give or take..

Math put it just over 50,000 Btu's

Heat transferred: 52,959,344.57 Joules 50,311.38 BTU's

This is close enough for me to believe the math is correct.

With that being said, the leaf/paper briquette's produce 12% of the energy vs the dry oak.
My guess of 4 to 5 times the amount of my leaf/paper briquette's seems to be becoming real.

I'm about to test the Math on the pellet stove and see if I can confirm again.






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49er
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USA
4427 Posts

Posted - November 26 2013 :  16:08:47  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

In your math do you have the mass of the leaf log by weight with the hard wood??

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
You must be logged in to see this link.
SKYPE doug.bennett49er
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 26 2013 :  16:51:08  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Confirmed on the pellet stove..

Until shown wrong, this is the basis I will now use and build a spreadsheet to share if interested.

I do have yet another formula to test against this theory.
That I will get into as I proceed.

Understand please, this is an experiment and hopefully an opportunity to judge what each product really does and a way to measure.. Real world, as we burn, how we burn.

Then you can decide if it's worth your effort.

Leaf/paper briquette's 70/30 burning 6K Btu
4 day drying time on my drying rack in front of my pellet stove
Yet only a dozen pieces..






Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - November 26 2013 :  17:35:53  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
This is one of the key things I like about this formula,
Weight of product doesn't matter.
It's all about Heat Transfer!

Yes, I do know both, just in case it matters down the line another way (part of the records).

You taught me to keep good records,,, I'm really trying here to keep a good record.







[quote]Originally posted by 49er

Hi ODR

In your math do you have the mass of the leaf log by weight with the hard wood??



Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!


Edited by - olddawgsrule on November 26 2013 17:41:26
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - December 06 2013 :  16:58:07  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The leaf seems to be a low production mix.
I'm drying some leaves separately to see if there's a difference
I do doubt it..

I do wish this was a good acorn year..
Last and past were huge (much better for the deer) and think that dried might be a better bio-source.
Density is far greater (as is specific heat)

Hmm.. I may just have a reason for the VC (Viscous Chipmunks) to remain here..
Give them a pile to feed themselves and leave me the shells..
Co-existence..
Oh My.... I'm becoming a Liberal!! LOL!!!



Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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49er
Administrator



USA
4427 Posts

Posted - December 17 2013 :  14:00:28  Show Profile Send 49er a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi ODR

No liberal here just meat for the bar bee. LOL

Doug
The sky is not the limit...There are footprints on the MOON.
Your only as DUMB as where your standing.
No matter where you go there you are.
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SKYPE doug.bennett49er
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olddawgsrule
Advanced Member



USA
1434 Posts

Posted - December 29 2013 :  13:50:18  Show Profile  Visit olddawgsrule's Homepage Send olddawgsrule a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I owe this post to anyone following.

I find the paper briquette's to be the easiest way of making a compressed block for for burning, yet I also find that heat production is low.
If I fill my stove with these, they can match up to wood, just need many more that a few splits..
And the residue ash is over-whelming..

As a 'binding' agent, I find the paper to work well.

I did a few ratio's of a leaf mix and found a greater value, yet still very low and the residue ash..
All I'll say is be prepared to clean your stove after each burn..

Next year I will work with the VC (viscous chipmunks) and collect the acorn shells.
Ground up, this could be a better bio-source.
And on certain years, I could fill a few barrels of these acorns!

I started this experiment because on another forum I belong to they stated paper briquette's don't burn.

Well they do!
Just not great...

If you have no other source, or are willing to spend the time making, drying and keeping the stove clean (not to mention the amount required)..
Yes, they can heat your home.

Compression is the key in any bio-fuel to be burned.
The greater the mass, compressed into a small unit to be burned, will produce the greatest value in return.

Personal note:
I figure the Fox will be upset with me if I start workin' with the VC.. She comes around each night for free meals.. Figure the deer may feel the same, since the barrels of acorns go out each winter for them..



Old in age, not in mind, so
'Teach me something new'!

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